Here’s the front face of the Fan-Atic; like the FC-8 we looked at before, this controller uses a brushed aluminum front with all aluminum construction. The difference between the black version and the silver version of this controller is that the black version is anodized in with the black color, while the silver version is just raw aluminum on the outside. It is very scratch resistant and does not show finger prints.
The Military Switches in the front are made from solid stainless steel construction; they are very well built and have a nice audible click when you flip them into position.
Here’s the bottom of the Fan-Atic; those 3 leads you see extending from each channel are the 2 color LEDs of this controller. Each lead is covered in a heat-shrink to help prevent damage to the lead.
A subtle difference I noticed between this controller and other ones is the molex connector is soldered on and they give you an included extension if you need it. I like this method a bit more as it can make cable routing easier.
Here’s the back side of the controller; as we can see, there are 6 connectors in total: 1 power input (4 Pin Molex Connection) and 5 Fan Headers. The soldering on this controller is pretty good. The overall design may be basic, but they did not skimp on build quality.
Here are the LED’s of the Fan-Atic controller in an alternating pattern to show you what they look like. Like the box says, when the switches are flipped down and the Red LED is on, this means whatever is connected to the channel is getting 12v of power and operating at full speed if it is a 12v device. Blue LEDs on with the switch toggled up means they are getting 5v of power and running a little bit below half speed.
Here we have each channel on the 5v setting making all the LED’s blue.
Here is the controller on the 12v setting making all the LEDs red.
Let’s move onto testing so we can see what the Fan-Atic can do.